When summer heat is in full force, the idea of wearing a suit may seem like a fashion faux pas, especially with the oppressive temperatures. However, Sid Mashburn, an Atlanta-based haberdasher, has mastered the art of staying cool and stylish in a summer suit. Here, Mashburn shares his expertise on fabric choices, suit construction, and the key to mastering summer suiting with ease.
1. Wool Isn’t Just for Winter
While wool might immediately bring to mind cozy winter sweaters, it is actually one of the best fabrics for summer suits. Mashburn recommends high-twist wool, often known as “hopsack,” “fresco,” or “tropical” wool, as an ideal material for warm weather. Wool is naturally odor-resistant and wrinkle-resistant, making it a top choice for those hot summer days. “It’s nature’s performance fabric,” Mashburn explains. Wool keeps you cool and comfortable, unlike cotton or linen, which tend to wrinkle and absorb sweat more easily. Mashburn recounts wearing a wool suit to a summer wedding on the “Redneck Riviera,” while others in cotton and linen suits were visibly sweating, proving wool’s superiority.
2. The Importance of Fabric Construction
When it comes to breathability, Mashburn explains that the weave and yarn size of the fabric are just as important as its weight. He often wears suits made from thicker, four-ply yarns, which create a looser, more breathable weave. These chunky yarns allow for better airflow, even if the fabric itself is a bit heavier. Mashburn emphasizes that a well-constructed suit can make a significant difference in comfort, regardless of the fabric’s weight. It’s all about finding the right balance between structure and breathability.
3. Structure Without the Stiffness
Many people assume that a structured suit jacket equals discomfort, but Mashburn says that’s not always the case. Half-lined suits are ideal for summer, but if you’re keen on a fully structured suit, choose one with breathable fabric. For instance, a wool or linen suit that has been constructed with a full canvas can provide the structure you desire without feeling stuffy. Mashburn recommends focusing on the fabric first and foremost, as a good material can adjust to the weather and your comfort needs.
4. Monochrome Seersucker for Subtle Style
Seersucker is a classic summer fabric, known for its cool, breathable qualities due to its wrinkled texture. While traditional blue-and-white seersucker may be too bold for some, Mashburn offers a more refined approach with monochrome seersucker suits. Available in colors like navy, khaki, pink, and sage, these subtle variations maintain the same breathable qualities as the bicolor version but offer a more versatile, understated look. The key takeaway: seersucker doesn’t have to be flashy to perform.
5. Rumpled, Not Wrinkled
Linen suits, while perfect for hot weather, are notorious for wrinkling. However, Mashburn encourages a “rumpled” look over the stiff, unpleasant “wrinkled” appearance. Wrinkling occurs naturally over time with linen, but it’s important to keep it looking presentable. Mashburn advises having linen suits hand-pressed before wearing them to avoid a messy appearance, as steaming or machine pressing can damage the fabric. If you can’t make it to a dry cleaner, Mashburn suggests taking a few minutes to press the suit yourself, as even a small effort will yield better results than nothing at all.
6. Leave Shorts for Casual Occasions
Mashburn is not a fan of pairing a suit jacket with shorts, despite it being a trend in certain circles. While this combination might be acceptable in certain places like Bermuda, Mashburn believes it’s not the right look for most occasions. “Shorts with a suit jacket is just not for me,” he says. Instead, Mashburn advocates for keeping the traditional look of a full suit, even in the heat, for a more sophisticated and put-together appearance.
By carefully selecting fabrics and paying attention to construction, Mashburn demonstrates that wearing a suit in the summer doesn’t have to compromise comfort or style. With these expert tips, you can stay cool while looking sharp throughout the hottest months.