When it comes to building a watch collection, it’s not just about acquiring timepieces — it’s about following a set of principles that will help you curate a collection that’s both meaningful and timeless. Much like in life, where we are guided by values and principles, your approach to watch collecting should reflect your personal style, taste, and philosophy. Mark Cho, a seasoned watch collector and co-founder of The Armoury, has shared his “Principles of Watch Collecting,” which have become a guide for those looking to approach the hobby thoughtfully and with purpose.
The Foundation of Watch Collecting: Start with Principles
Mark Cho’s watch collection journey is a testament to the importance of having a set of rules to navigate the vast world of horology. Cho’s own experiences, including selling a significant portion of his collection in 2022, have led him to distill key insights that are now shared in his “Principles of Watch Collecting.” These principles provide a framework that encourages collectors to focus on quality, personal taste, and long-term value, rather than following fleeting trends.
Rule #1: Rare Doesn’t Always Mean Great
One of Cho’s most striking pieces of advice is that “rare watches are not always great, and great watches are not always rare.” This is an essential point for anyone interested in collecting timepieces. It’s easy to be swayed by the allure of rarity or exclusivity, but rarity doesn’t necessarily equate to quality. The Rolex Oyster Quartz, for example, may be rare but isn’t necessarily regarded as a standout in terms of craftsmanship. What makes a watch truly special is its design, innovation, and personal connection, not just its scarcity.
Rule #2: Popularity is Fleeting
Cho’s second principle is an important reminder for collectors: “Unpopular watches may become popular, but rare watches will always remain rare.” Many collectors are driven by what is currently in demand or what is popular in the market. However, Cho points out that some watches may be overlooked initially, only to gain appreciation over time. The key is to focus on the intrinsic value of a watch, rather than its current popularity. For example, the Patek Philippe Nautilus was once easy to purchase at retail, but now it’s nearly impossible to find due to its rising popularity.
Rule #3: Quality Over Budget
When it comes to watch collecting, many collectors are advised to “buy once, cry once.” This philosophy is echoed in Cho’s third principle: “Expensive watches can be worth the cost. Cheap watches are not always worth the savings.” In the world of collecting, it’s often better to invest in a high-quality piece rather than trying to save a few dollars on a cheaper alternative. A well-made, timeless piece will bring you much more joy in the long run than a watch that you regret purchasing because it wasn’t quite what you wanted.
The Golden Rule: Buy What You Love
Ultimately, Cho’s guiding principle can be boiled down to a single idea: “Buy what you like.” Whether it’s an expensive investment piece or an unpopular gem, the most important factor is that the watch resonates with you personally. Remember, it’s a piece that you’ll wear every day, so make sure it aligns with your personal taste and style.
The Journey to Personal Taste
Building a watch collection is a highly personal endeavor. It requires patience and an understanding of your own preferences. For new collectors, Cho’s principles offer valuable advice to guide them through the process of discovering what truly excites them in the world of watches. Once you understand the rules of collecting, you can confidently break them and curate a collection that reflects your unique taste and lifestyle.
Conclusion: Have Fun with Your Collection
At the heart of Cho’s principles is the notion of enjoying the process. Watch collecting should be fun, a way to explore your personal style, learn about craftsmanship, and connect with the stories behind each timepiece. The best collections don’t happen by accident; they are the result of thoughtful decisions, guided by personal principles that reflect who you are as a collector. So, whether you’re just starting out or looking to refine your collection, keep these rules in mind, and above all, remember to have fun.