Japan’s influence on menswear has long been undeniable, but a new generation of brands is now taking center stage, ushering in a fresh wave of innovation. These labels are adding a contemporary touch to the rich tradition of Japanese design, blending classic influences with modern sensibilities. From niche labels to visionary designs, these new players are redefining what Japanese menswear means for the global market.
The Evolution of Japanese Menswear
For decades, Japan has been a key player in the evolution of menswear, with brands like Comme des Garçons, Issey Miyake, and Yohji Yamamoto leading the charge. These designers established Japan as a hub for avant-garde fashion, known for its innovative designs and skilled craftsmanship. In the 1990s, Japanese fashion subcultures like streetwear and vintage workwear gained global prominence, with labels such as Visvim, Kapital, and Engineered Garments making their mark internationally.
However, a shift is occurring. While established brands continue to influence the fashion world, a new wave of Japanese menswear is rising—defined by personal expression, unique design perspectives, and a focus on niche markets. These new brands have a distinctly Japanese sensibility, but with a modern twist that makes them feel less bound by traditional cultural aesthetics.
A New Wave of Japanese Labels
At the forefront of this new wave are brands like A.Presse, Setinn, and Unlikely Dry Goods. These labels are driven by the personal passions and unique visions of their founders, offering products that feel meticulously crafted and designed with purpose. A.Presse, founded by Kazuma Shigematsu, exemplifies this approach, creating garments with extraordinary attention to detail and luxurious materials. Though small now, A.Presse is expanding internationally and will soon launch in the U.S. market.
Similarly, Setinn, created by Shingo Arai, draws from 1990s tennis culture but infuses the designs with a modern flair that appeals to contemporary sensibilities. Unlikely Dry Goods, led by Shinsuke Nakata, fuses Americana with Japanese aesthetics to create garments that are both functional and stylish, appealing to a distinct subculture.
The Shift Toward Personal Narratives
What sets these new brands apart from their predecessors is their emphasis on personal narratives. Designers are no longer trying to appeal to a mass audience, but instead are focusing on building a loyal following by embracing their unique perspectives. Whether it’s Unlikely’s blend of outdoor and Americana influences or Setinn’s homage to tennis fashion, these brands resonate with consumers who are seeking something more specific and authentic.
This approach also reflects a broader trend in the fashion industry: the rise of niche markets. The success of these brands lies in their ability to tap into subcultures and offer products that speak directly to a specific audience. Whether it’s streetwear enthusiasts, vintage collectors, or outdoor lovers, these brands cater to the passionate few, creating designs that feel personal and one-of-a-kind.
Looking Ahead: The Future of Japanese Menswear
As Japan’s economy faces challenges, the global reach of its fashion labels is only set to grow. With the decline of the yen and an increased desire to look beyond their domestic market, Japanese brands are pushing to make a name for themselves internationally. A.Presse, Unlikely, and others are leading this charge, proving that while Japan’s economic landscape may be shifting, its influence on global fashion remains as strong as ever.
In this new age of menswear, brands are moving away from the one-size-fits-all approach and embracing individuality. Whether it’s through unique design processes or personal stories embedded in each collection, the future of Japanese menswear is defined by specificity, enthusiasm, and a deep connection to subcultures. As the industry evolves, these brands are poised to lead the way, shaping the future of fashion with authenticity and creativity at the forefront.